Saisons

    Saisons, like many styles of Europe, don't lend themselves to strict classifications as much as the North American beers do (or the crowd likes to). Only that they are more baffling that any other category/confusion, including the good old dubbel/quad/BSDA debate. Complex, spicy, tart, aromatic, hoppy, and still somewhat malty, the character is more of the brewer's and circumstances' and terroir's signature than the expected style guidelines. Did I forget yeasty?

What to expect? (All from BJCP's definition!)

Aroma: High fruitiness, moderate to no herb, spice and alcohol. Citrus fruits such as oranges or lemons. Low to medium-high spicy or floral hop aroma. Moderate spice aroma (from actual spice additions and/or yeast-derived phenols). Low to moderate sourness or acidity.

Flavor: Combination of fruity and spicy flavors supported by a soft malt character, a low to moderate alcohol presence and tart sourness. Dry finish. The fruitiness is frequently citrusy (orange- or lemon-like). Low to moderate tartness. Spices, hop bitterness and flavor, and sourness commonly increase with the strength of the beer while sweetness decreases.

    All saisons that I had had up to now were American brewed, and I really wanted to pitch them against the "real" thing. Verdict - not EVEN close. But I digress! Here are my earlier reviews of the style: Hennepin (I have overrated this one!), Wild Rice Farmhouse, Tank 7. Off to the real thing!

Fantôme Saison

750 ml corked and capped bottle with best by date not marked, poured into three Saison Dupont glasses.

    Murky amber hued with plenty of "stuff" floating in it even when poured gently. I poured this beer into three glasses and the amount of sediment was drastically different, with the last glass many times murkier than the first. A layer of sediment settled on the side of the bottle after pouring and at the bottom of the glasses as well.

    The head on this beer was surprisingly disappointing: tiny soda bubbles formed and left really fast even though the glasses it was poured into favor good retention. Only thing left was a tiny ring of finer bubbles, and no lacing whatsoever.

    As I was pouring, I could pick some hops. When I brought the glass closer, I got the dubbel like dessert notes of toasted dark fruit but once I sniffed, all I could think was massive funk. Horses - scores of 'em. And then some faint tartness lurking somewhere. It's amazing how many things are going on in this ale!

    Tastes like it smells, only stronger. Moreover, the taste is strongly dependent upon the part of the bottle the pour is from. Strong notes of dark fruit, lighter fruit, lemony tartness and bitterness. Perhaps the most complex beer I have tasted, if not the most delicious. Tastes more like a blend than an individual beer. The best comes when it warms up and starts to taste like honey with a few drops of lemon. Nice!

    Quite dry and slightly bitter with a long fruity finish; although I am sure that my bottle wasn't properly conditioned given the poor appearance. And even then, this is the best beer I have had in its style. I would buy much more of it if (a) It was cheaper than almost ~$15/bottle (b) Didn't come in green bottles and (c) Fantôme was known for putting out a consistent product.

Saison Dupont

750 ml corked and caged bottle, poured into three Saison Dupont glasses.

    Golden amber and seemingly clear, Dupont pours with an "off-the-hook" Belgian head that took forever to settle and left killer lacing on the glasses. Perfect looks. Upon closer inspection, very fine yeast is seen suspended in the liquid.

    The aroma is dominated by hops - herbal notes (Euro hops), spices, and a little funk. Lemony notes upon warmth.

    Not nearly as complex as Fantôme in taste, the hops overwhelm this one. Malt-yeast complexity wavers; although some fruity esters, and citrus character that's not from the hops,  are felt upon warmth.

    Finishes real dry and is always crisp with high carbonation... nice! Very drinkable with moderate alcohol, I quite like this one although I would take Fantôme over it. Any day.

Scores

	Fantôme Saison	Saison Dupont
Appearance	3	5
Aroma	4.5	4.5
Taste	4.5	3.5
Mouthfeel	4.5	5
Overall	4	4